Fit is the number one most important element of a good-looking suit. You can have the best fabrics, or the coolest shoes, or the most original tie, but if the suit doesn’t fit properly, it won’t look good.
Does James Bond ever have his pants pooling over his shoes? Would Frank Sinatra get caught dead with a jacket that bulged at the buttons? The man should wear the suit. The suit shouldn’t wear the man.
Here’s our definitive guide to ensuring your suit looks like you know what you’re doing
The shirt sleeve should land naturally at your wrist where your hand starts to widen. The jacket sleeve should end with enough room to show off about ½” of your shirt sleeve. No more, no less. You can show off your cufflinks and won’t look like you’re wearing someone else’s jacket.
Pro Tip: make sure your shirt is fully buttoned and tucked in to gauge the proper sleeve length.
Your jacket shouldn’t be too loose or too tight. If you see an “x” shape in the chest after buttoning up, your jacket is too tight. If you see a gap behind your neck, your jacket is too loose.
With a two-button jacket, you should only button the top one. Always leave the bottom button undone. The bottom button is also often left undone for vests as well. For a one-button jacket, always button it. If you’re going to take a seat, remember to unbutton your jacket.
Make sure that your pant waist sits just below the bellybutton (this is your natural waist). That way, your pants won’t be too long and your look won’t be sloppy.
Pro Tip: Use suspenders to maintain the appropriate tuxedo pant length, while adding classic flair to your look.
Your pants should have about a half inch break, landing at the back of the shoe. Try on your pants with the shoes you are wearing to the event. Should your pants bunch up slightly around your ankles, check to make sure your pant waist is where it should be – just below your bellybutton. This should allow for a more natural break in the pant. We repeat – do not leave the house with pants that are pooling at the ankles.
While the pant cut for a suit or tuxedo may not be as form-fitting as your everyday wear, you can choose a slim fit pant to replicate that more closely-fitted look if you prefer.
Repeat after me: I will not wear a belt with a tuxedo pant. I will not wear a belt with a tuxedo pant. You can wear them on their own or with suspenders.
When wearing a suit, you can wear a belt or suspenders if desired, depending on your mood and the overall look.